Walking Trails And Tales
This section of Walking 101 is intended to be an ever-growing repository of walkers' experiences and recommendations regarding trails and other walking venues everywhere. All are welcome to add experiences and photographs by submitting them on the contact page. The initial posts reflect walking adventures in Oregon and California. Hopefully these will prime the pump for many interesting entries to follow. The links directly following will allow you to advance directly to walking trail entries of your choice without having to scroll through ones of no interest to you.
California: Granada Hills, Northridge, Oakland, Van Nuys, West Hollywood
Oregon: Charleston, Coos Bay, North Bend
California Walking Trails and Tales
GRANADA HILLS, CALIFORNIA WALKING TRAILS AND TALES
O'Melveny Park
O'Melveny Park is located at the north end of the San Fernando Valley. Its basic purpose is to serve as a place for residents to picnic, barbeque, and enjoy outdoor events, but it also has a walking and jogging track and a few interesting trails.
The first time I went there I investigated the obvious walking opportunities and noted a closed sign at the entrance of one particularly enticing trail. On subsequent visits I followed the other trails, most of which were fairly barren of vegetation due to a recent fire. One day while hiking up a fairly steep trail I met a man and his dog coming down. During a brief conversation with the man I learned that he had started his hike on the trail that was supposed to be closed, and that many people used that trail on a regular basis.
Naturally the next time I went to the park I ignored the closed sign and headed up the ravine to see what was there. Basically it was a fire road, somewhat overgrown in areas, which followed the path of least resistance upward. The foliage through there had fared better in the fire, probably because the area was more protected and not as dry.
At one point the fire road turned abruptly to the left and led in a zigzag fashion toward the top of the ridge. At the first landing there was an outcropping that functioned as a natural overlook and afforded an impressive view of the valley. Somebody had planted a geranium, a bougainvillea, and a couple other nonnative plants I couldn't identify there, which all appeared to have been recently hand watered.
On several occasions I attempted to duplicate the feat of that man and his dog, but the steep terrain and hot weather deterred me. One day on my way to that trail a coyote was perched atop a nearby hill and howled for about five minutes. Unlike what I was used to from movies and television, it was not a continuous melodic sound, but a series of annoying, high-pitched yips.
O'Melveny Park redux. About a year after my last visit, I returned to O'Melveny Park to find it significantly changed by nature and man, and discovered another trail previously overlooked. Much of the fire damage was no longer evident. The hillsides were covered with blooming morning glories, mustard, blackeyed Susans, and a variety of wild flowers whose names I do not know. Since it was a breezy day, the view of the San Fernando Valley from the natural overlook was magnificent, absent of its usual haze. The previously clandestine garden had grown considerably and featured a handmade sign proclaiming it to be Hanwul Garden. Gone was the largely ignored sign at the base of the trail that had annouced its closure, replaced by a small painted marker pointing toward the entrance of O'Melveny Trail. A couple more new markers directed visitors to the Equestrian Trail and the Grotto Trail.
Toward the west end of the Equestrian trail I followed an unmarked path that had escaped my notice during my previous visits to the park. The trail was fairly steep and meandered through an open area thick with blooming mustard and wild grass. At a fork in the path I saw what looked to be a pergola along the path to my left and decided to get a closer look. What I found was a 4' by 10' wooden viewing platform with a couch inside facing toward the valley below. The well-built structure was home to several geckos and had been decorated with mostly new age-style graffitti, i.e., Make the change you wish to see.
NORTHRIDGE, CALIFORNIA WALKING TRAILS AND TALES
Aliso Canyon Park
Aliso Canyon Park in Northridge is basically an undeveloped open space with a network of fire roads and crude trails that are used by hikers, joggers, cyclists, horseback riders, and dirt bikers. There is a creek that runs the length of the canyon and crosses the trails periodically. The lower canyon is wooded in places while the upper canyon has more sparse vegetation.
Due to increased exposure to the sun the higher up you go, I usually only walk there in the early morning. I have never walked the entire length of the canyon so I'm not sure how far it goes; my best guess would be between three and four miles.
Signs posted warn of possible mountain lions, but in my walks there the most ferocious creature I have encountered is a rabbit. A few houses overlook the canyon; the driveway of one joins the upper end of a fire road. A short, but fairly steep section of fire road terminates alongside tennis courts belonging to a housing development; the trail across the street from the fire road's exit connects to nearby Limekiln Canyon Park.
Limekiln Canyon Park
Limekiln Canyon Park is what the local park department calls a pocket park, which is probably a euphemistic term for land that was donated by developers because it wasn't suitable for housing. At the mouth of the canyon there are a few picnic tables and stretching bars, but no water or restrooms. The remainder of the park is connected by a single trail that follows the mostly wooded canyon upward for a few miles. Primarily the trail is used for walking, but a jogger or cyclist can be seen on it from time to time. Officially it is listed as a bridal trail as well, but I've never seen horses on the trail or evidence of any having been there.
This park is fairly popular with local walkers, there always seems to be a steady stream of people going in both directions on the trail. The grade is steep enough that many regulars use walking sticks or poles to navigate the dirt trail safely. Slightly more than a mile up the canyon the trail intersects with another trail that connects to nearby Aliso Canyon Park, but the directional sign was destroyed by fire so you have to look very hard for the connection or just know that it's there.
OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA WALKING TRAILS AND TALES
Lake Merritt
At various times as a boy growing up in Oakland I had occasion to walk along and around Lake Merritt. I certainly did not do it for exercise, walking was one of my primary ways of getting around and the lake was just on the route to common destinations. It wasn't until I was in my twenties, and lived within a few blocks of Lake Merritt, that I went there for exercise periodically.
Truly it is one of the better inner city walking venues that I have encountered. The lake is actually a large tidal lagoon, which is surrounded by parkland and city neighborhoods. It features a 3.5-mile walking and jogging path that runs along its perimeter.
The elaborate pergola that graces the northeastern tip of the lake and the manicured, tastefully landscaped periphery lend a vaguely old-fashioned, civilized ambience to the lake and adjacent areas. This is enhanced by interesting diversions such as a nature center, a boathouse, Fairyland Park, bird islands, and botanical gardens.
VAN NUYS, CALIFORNIA WALKING TRAILS AND TALES
Anthony C. Beilenson Park
Anthony C. Beilenson Park is a large, multiuse park that serves the southeast San Fernando Valley. It occupies the majority of the land bordered by the major thoroughfares of Burbank, Victory, and Balboa, and the Los Angeles River. It borders Balboa and Encino Municipal Golf Courses to the south. Walking and biking paths line nearly the entire perimeter as well as the park's access road, and spread out in various directions throughout the interior; they interconnect with trails encompassing the adjacent golf courses and Balboa Sports Center across the street.
During peak periods the trails resemble a high school track during gym class, which is why I studiously avoid them during those times. My favorite trail, which runs east beside the Los Angeles River, has a more natural aspect to it and generally doesn't attract as much traffic as the others. There is a newer dirt trail that winds through the northwest corner of the park, which will probably be spectacular when the restoration project is finished and the newly planted trees and bushes reach maturity.
I sometimes walk in a sort of no man's land adjacent to Balboa Sports Center, which is accessible and appears to be public property; it consists of a dirt road around the periphery of a large field of tall weeds. I like it because there is never anyone else there, just a bunch of rabbits and an occasional coyote.
When I walk in the early morning near the Los Angeles River, it is not uncommon to see denizens of the park yawning and stretching as they greet the new day. It would seem the park has an unofficial laissez faire policy toward them, as I've never seen them being rousted or bothered by the grounds crew.
WEST HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA WALKING TRAILS AND TALES
Pan Pacific Park
Pan Pacific Park is a multiuse park situated in the heart of West Hollywood, a short distance from CBS Television City, Farmer's Market, and the Fairfax District. By any standards it is aesthetically landscaped and ergonomically designed. An interesting feature of this park is that no bicycles are allowed, so its two miles of paved paths are the exclusive domain of walkers and joggers, mostly the former.
Much of the park is within a shallow ravine. As a result, the grades of the paths vary and provide enough difficulty to promote aerobic exercise. Whereas there are plenty of trees throughout the park, few offer any shade to those following the paved walking route.
To avoid walking in the heat, I have always gone to Pan Pacific Park in the early morning. Even then it is fairly busy. Besides the ones using the walking and jogging loop, there are a surprising number of people there at that time of day occupied with soccer, basketball, physical training, people watching, lounging, etc. Doubtless the number of park visitors increases dramatically during peak periods.
Oregon Walking Trails and Tales
CHARLESTON, OREGON VICINITY WALKING TRAILS AND TALES
Bastendorff Beach
Bastendorff Beach is located on Cape Arago Hwy approximately two miles west of Charleston. Like many Oregon beaches, it is not conducive to swimming because the water is too cold. However, it is a great place for walking. It stretches for a couple miles and it is rare that there are very many people there, a feature that appeals to me a lot; I prefer walking in relative solitude.
As beaches go, it is fairly noisy. Although there are no rocks for the waves to pound upon, a continual ocean roar fills the air and reminds you of the powerful forces of nature. I imagine it is similar in that respect to a beach my mother frequented as a shy adolescent, singing as loud as she could without fear of someone hearing her.
One thing I learned from my walks at Bastendorff Beach is that you get a much better workout in a shorter time walking on sand. There, with its steady cool breeze, I never got uncomfortably warm no matter how long I walked.
Oregon Coast Trail
The Oregon Coast Trail follows the entire coastline of the state, but due to the rugged terrain in many places along the coast it is not continuous. One of its many segments starts in Sunset Bay State Park, several miles west of Charleston, and extends past Shore Acres Botanical Gardens and Simpson Reef viewing area to Cape Arago State Park, a distance of four miles.
The northernmost leg of this section of the trail is my absolute favorite walking venue, and I regret not having discovered it sooner. Shortly after crossing a narrow footbridge in the day use portion of the park, the trail zigzags up to the top of a small hill with a stand of trees dense enough that very little sunlight is able to shine on the ground. During my first visit I explored this plateau thoroughly and stumbled upon a huge tree that someone had fancifully decorated with a band of beads around the circumference of its trunk, accented with a large bow.
On the periphery of the hilltop are paths that lead to viewpoints overlooking spectacular, towering sea cliffs and pounding surf. In one such secluded spot is a bench with a plaque memorializing somebody's loved one. There are numerous similar memorial benches gracing overlooks along the next two miles of the trail.
Mostly the trail follows the contour of the shore and offers amazing glimpses of craggy topography and hidden inlets and beaches. It intersects with a short trail that leads down to a peaceful cove and beach, then briefly follows Cape Arago Hwy south before returning to the shoreline. Eventually the trail reaches Shore Acres Park, which boasts a lookout where on a clear day you really can see forever.
Since to this point it is over a two-mile walk, and to get back to my car an equal distance, I have never explored the remainder of the trail, but it continues on the other side of the botanical gardens. After winding along the coast it passes the Simpson Reef/Shell Island overlook, popular for viewing sea lions and seals. Then it crosses the road and begins on the other side, crossing back after a little ways and continuing to Cape Arago State Park, which has trails to its north and south coves.
COOS BAY, OREGON WALKING TRAILS AND TALES
John Topits Park
I was living in Coos Bay, a small town on Oregon's south coast, when I was finally able to get serious about walking regularly. Previously I had begun a walking regimen in Florida, but humidity and the tedium of walking trough uninspired housing developments undermined my good intensions. Since my Coos Bay home was located about a block from the rear entrance to John Topits Park, and the local climate was fairly mild, I figured I'd give walking another try.
Although it is situated in the middle of town, John Topits Park has a natural and relatively unimproved ambience. Stands of indigenous trees and other foliage, including wild rhododendrons, surround its Empire Lakes and four miles of paved walking trails. The trails are level in many areas, but mostly they have slight to moderate grades that facilitate aerobic exercise whether you want it or not.
In addition to the labyrinth of paved trails, the park also has many unofficial trails created by animals and adventuresome hikers. Occasionally I followed some of them, usually winding up at a dead end, a sheltered fishing spot, or the backyard of a neighboring house.
At the northeast edge of the park there is access to a rustic path through pristine forest that leads to the Southwestern Oregon Community College campus. This became one of my favorite places to walk. At times it was a bit challenging to traverse, though. During the rainy season a creek that was normally no more than a trickle would swell up, requiring a fair amount of athleticism and derring-do to jump across. For several months a fallen tree approximately three feet in diameter blocked the final leg of the journey until a crew equipped with a chainsaw cleared it away.
Due to the relatively small population of the area, the walking paths in John Topits Park are not used all that much. Typically I passed more people fishing on the sides of the lakes than I did fellow walkers. Every once in awhile I came upon a deer or two during my walks, possibly the same ones that visited my nearby garden in search of more appetizing fare than the park could supply.
Despite its convenience, beauty, and minimal traffic I started to get bored with walking in the same place, so I proceeded to look around for other close by walking venues to avail myself of. Fortunately for me, there was no shortage of such places in Coos Bay and the surrounding environs.
Mingus Park
Mingus Park, located near downtown Coos Bay, is a traditional park that just happens to offer some opportunities for various types of walking. The centerpiece of this park is a small man-made lake that is very popular with a variety of waterfowl. There is a walking path along the lake's entire circumference, approximately a quarter mile in length.
Many people enjoy leisurely walking around the lake for relaxation, while others use the path as a sort of picturesque track, circling the lake repeatedly to get a full workout. This walking path was an ideal place for my elderly mother, who got around with the aid of a walker, to get some exercise. I used to take her there several times a month.
On the periphery of the park are some trails that follow a wooded ravine for quite a ways. The grade on those trails is gradual but pronounced, and the atmosphere pleasant and peaceful. Even though I really liked them, for some reason they were never particularly convenient for my regular walking regimen and I only used them a couple times.
Millicoma Marsh
The Millicoma Marsh Trail wanders through fresh and saltwater marshes on the Coos Estuary. The first time I went nobody else was there and it was nearly grown over. In some places it was difficult to see where the trail continued, tall grass and weeds obscured the gravel. Certainly this gave the area a more natural aspect, but finding my way around was a bit tricky. As I was leaving I met a woman who told me she encountered two frightened teenagers running out of the trail a few days before, who claimed to have seen a mountain lion.
Fearing an attack by a mountain lion was not the reason, yet several years passed before I ventured out there again. The difference in its appearance was startling. A swath that in places extended nearly twenty feet wide had been recently mowed from the trailhead to its terminus. Whereas previously I was the only walker there, that day I had quite a bit of company. It seemed to have become quite popular as a dog run as well as a hiking trail. I went back a few more times before moving away, but only to give my walking regimen variety; I didn't enjoy it as much as some of the other local walking venues.
NORTH BEND, OREGON WALKING TRAILS AND TALES
North Spit Overlook
The North Spit Overlook is somewhat of a curiosity because it is a reclaimed wetlands site constructed and maintained by a private business, the Weyerhaeuser Company. It contains two nature/hiking trails, each a little over one mile in length. The Wetland Trail starts from the lower parking lot and meanders past the wetlands and goes through coastal forests and sand dunes to the northern wetlands and returns through sand dunes to the upper parking lot. The East Dunes Trail begins at the upper parking lot and goes in reverse of the Wetland Trail ending at the lower parking lot.
During my first visit there I noticed that parts of the trails were overgrown. On my next trip I brought along a pair of pruning shears and gave the trails a trim. Just as I was finishing up, another walker came along and asked me if I had been doing my pro bono gardening a few days prior on a tributary of the trail I was working on.
The idea that there was someone else engaged in guerilla park maintenance intrigued me, so I asked him to show me the place he was talking about. After wending our way through moderately dense forest we came upon a horse trail from Wild Mare Horse Camp on the adjacent Oregon Dunes, where indeed clippings lay scattered about on the ground. Apparently someone riding on horseback had pruned low hanging branches to avoid getting battered while riding through there during their camping trip.
Since we were already off the trail and beyond the boundaries of the North Spit Overlook, we continued westward through the woods and wetlands until we came to a natural berm. Scaling that mound of sand was well worth the effort; miles of the Pacific Ocean and the Oregon coastline were visible from that vantage point. We scrambled down the other side and walked along the deserted beach for quite awhile before stopping and retracing our steps back to where we started out.
easyfuncandlebiz.com homeandcareers.com
ocnsignal.com wicksworks.com wordwooze.net